Archive for February, 2012

Posted in juice on 25 February 2012 by stephen wayne

February Newsletter pt II

Burgundy Notes from a Tasting on Melrose
(all available too!)

On Wednesday, Feb 22 I drove down to Hatfield’s restaurant on Melrose in Los Angeles to taste Pinots and Chardonnays from some of the most ‘under the radar’ producers in Burgundy. Allen Medows (Burghound), Antonio Galloni (Wine Advocate), Stephen Tanzer, and many more professional reviewers have been singing their praises for years now. I had to find out what this was all about.

Here are the wines we tasted. All wines are priced reflecting a 20-25% discount and are available (although some are very limited so order quickly).

We begin with one champagne however:

2002 Lenoble Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Champagne ($65)
A great way to start any tasting! And this wine lived up to the reviews by Tanzer (93pts) and Wine Spectator (93pts). A medium bodied wine with lively bubbles and great rich juice. Flavors of quince paste, candied orange peel, roast nut, clove and brioche opened up into a vibrant springy wine with a firm backbone and fine balance. From start to finish utterly delicious. This wine drinks well now but will last another 10 years at least. Remember, 2002 is a stellar vintage for champagne. And only 200 cases imported of this treasure! RW 93+

The wines from Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey have rarely been seen outside France. These wines are small production, crafted with precision, with little interference. I love them, and I am sure you will love them too. As one wine writer puts it: “In a very short time, he has established himself a reputation for making some of the best wines in Burgundy.” Underground Wine Letter

2010 Colin-Morey Saint Aubin Chateniere 1er Cru ($44)
Saint Aubin is an appellation situated in the hills just above Chassagne and his wines from here are the quality of Chassgane Montrachet Premier Crus at a fraction of the price.
This wine showed great minerality balanced with ripe fruits and a long lingering finish. Polished and graceful. RW 91

2009 Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Maltroie 1er Cru ($64)
This wine begins with a gorgeous nose that is both harmonious and classy. Nice aromas of white peach and sublet citrus aromas, and a solid mid-palate experience followed with a rich, textured finish that is both long and delicious. RW 94

2009 Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Chenevottes 1er Cru ($69)
This was my favorite Colin-Morey of the day. A wine that flows onto the palate with remarkable grace. Everything is here: weight, elegance, precision. Already remarkably complex, this wine will only get better and better (and better). A complex and vivid finish. DON’T MISS! RW 95


MORE WHITE BURGUNDY:

2009 Albert Grivault Bougogne Blanc ($32)
The wine begins with mildly exotic yellow fruit aromas which leads to rich, round and delicious flavors, processing both good volume and a sappy texture on a nicely complex finish. An excellent Bourgogne. RW 90

2009 Gros Frere et Soeur Bourgogne Hauest Cotes de Nuits Blanc ($34)
A ripe nose of citrus and delicious chardonnay fruit aromas gives way to rich, round and very generous flavors. The mid-palate is enticing, with a delicious finish that will allow for immediate enjoyment. RW 91

NOW FOR A FEW RED BURGUNDIES:

2010 Frederic Esmonin Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits ($24)
The 2010 can be described as a vintage with clean, pure fruit. This wine is no exception. A typical pinot nose is a nice introduction into rich, medium-weight juice with good mid-palate concentration and refined tannins. A finish that lingers. This is an excellent effort at a great price. RW 89

2010 Frederic Esmonin Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St-Jacques 1er Cru ($54) magnums available
Elegant and quite pure! That was my first thought. But this wine has wonderful complexity and detail with a palate-staining finish that is both long and that kept reminding me why I love Burgundy! RW 94

2010 Frederic Esmonin Mazy-Chambertin Grand Cru ($106)
magnums available
My second favorite red wine of the day. A complex and elegant nose features earthy red pinot, plum and distinct sauvage notes. This rich and generous wine has a wonderful silky mouth feel that had me ordering cases in my mind before I finished tasting it. The finish was incredible and very stylish. NOT TO BE MISSED! RW 95

2010 Frederic Esmonin Ruchottes-Chammbertin Grand Cru ($106) magnums available
I was unsure of this at first. But as I swirled it round my glass I began to see why this is one of his best wines. Subtle hints of truffle, earth, dark berry fruits emerge, but only grudgingly. There is good minerality here, and some apparent oak. The finish lasts but is thin at this time. I would suspect that with some cellar time (5 or so years) this wine will be amazing. Certainly worth purchasing and hiding away! RW 93 today, 95+ with time

2009 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru ($119)
magnums available
Wine of the Day for me! A sublime wine with grand expression and extremely pure juice. Restrained at the moment but showing a gorgeously elegant nose of red berry and plum with intense minerality. There is good weight here at the moment that will grow with time. A nice vibrant, firm finish that is lovely and graceful. ANOTHER NOT TO MISS WINE!
RW 95+